Showing posts with label HBAR. Show all posts
Showing posts with label HBAR. Show all posts

Monday, August 13, 2018

Fake Acog from Ali Express

After reading through this thread, I got a little curious:

https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/ever-tear-down-a-fake-acog-/5-2093358/




I don't know a lot about Trijicon ACOGs, but I do know they cost a lot more than I'd like to pay, and they seem to hold their value quite well.  I've heard about the crystal clear glass, but I've also heard about the craptacular eye-relief (a trait shared with another high end mil optic - Elcan).

So I happened to stumble on this thread on AR15.com that seemed to have a few good things about these fakes, which really surprised me.  I've had fake optics, but I haven't consciously bought any since I first started getting into firearms.  All of the ones I've ever had rattled apart, both internally and externally, and just couldn't handle the recoil of a real firearm.  These were toys, meant for Airsoft rifles, and had no place on real firearms.

But when I read about these fake ACOGs, many were citing they were able to hold up.  There was even a youtube video of a guy trying his fake ACOG on a shotgun.  I thought my M16A4 clone could use an alternative to the carry handle (though I really like the look of the carry handle), so I figured for $60 USD, let's give it a try.  Besides, if shit hit the fan, the M16 clone would probably not be the first rifle I'd grab and depend my life on.  I got it as a novelty because I don't see myself ever coughing up coin for a real one (my real Elcan was already a hard pill to swallow for such low magnification).  This would be used for plinking at the range until it implodes.


There are markings on the body of the scope, but even though I don't own a real ACOG, I can tell these markings aren't authentic.  The QR code seen on many scopes and firearms just doesn't look right.


I've also seen a few real ACOGs to remember that the works "Trijicon ACOG" were embossed on the side, not printed in bright white, however I could be wrong and maybe there are models that look like this. 




At a quick glance, the fake doesn't look too bad, and even has some heft to it, however flip it upside down and I confirmed there was no way this could be a serious substitute for the real deal.  The base consists of two screws, but one of the screws was drilled into the base incorrectly and is too recessed into the base to catch the rail.


On closer inspection, you can seen imperfections in the metal underneath the paint, which could be casting anomalies.


You can also see where the worker who assembled this thing painted the inside of the tube, maybe it was glue or weather proofing to seal the glass.


The glue/paint goes all around where the glass meets the body of the scope.


You can also see the two points where they glued down the fibre optic.



More imperfections visible in the metal underneath the paint.


Surprisingly, the glass was pretty clear, the reticle was crisp, and the red chevron was nice and bright.  Being completely unfamiliar with ACOGs, I first thought the thing was shipped with the illuminated reticle lit, only to realize there was no battery powered illumination, it was just a really bright fibre optic.  I'm not sure I'd trust the bullet drop numbers printed in that reticle though.


Here you can see where one screw is recessed and completely useless on your rails.  






Anyway, the thing looks good on my M16A4 clone...from a distance.  I don't think I'd ever use this beyond plinking at the range.  Shortly after I took these photos, I took the thing off and ended up putting the carry handle back on.  I might just set this fake ACOG aside and use it if I ever build an M4 clone with a dedicated .22lr upper.



Tuesday, November 14, 2017

Fixed carry handle rebuild

Well, my 20" fixed carry handle upper didn't stay intact for very long.  Because of lerch641 from CGN, I got it into my head to flat top my new A2 20" build. 




Anyway, fairly straightforward to spin the flash hider off, and tap out the pins from the front sight base.


A little G96 on the barrel and a little wiggle will help get the front post off without scratching up the barrel.


Then it's just a matter of spinning off the delta ring assembly.


My first fixed carry handle upper, and it's homeless already.


I then had the brilliant idea of butchering by Colt Expanse competition 3 gun upper I built a while ago:





Off came the muzzle brake and the newly installed Midwest Industries free-float M-lok hand guard.


Comparison between the Colt Expanse barrel on the left, and the Olympic Arms HBAR on the right.


Olympic Arms A2 upper on top, the Colt Expanse upper below.


Sometimes when I haven't touched these in a while, I get stumped with the snap ring, because it requires a tool to time it properly, however I remembered the last time I had to do this, I just used a small punch and tapped it around until it was timed properly.

Then it was just a matter of slapping on the front triangle and gas tube.


A close up of the Colt Expanse upper, noting that it's stamped M4 at the front.


Tapping the pins back in place.  I probably should have used an F marked front triangle, but I was too lazy to dig one out of my spare parts bin and seeing if it had the same alignment.



Threw it back on my Colt Canada lower as well as a KAC M5 RAS.  Now I have no idea what this build is supposed to be.  It's not really a C7 build, and it's not really an M16A4 build either....sort of a mutt of both.


Square forge mark on the carry handle and upper, keyhole on the lower.







This is the result of tearing down my 3 gun upper (that I never even had a chance to use for three gun).  I took the Colt Expanse barrel and threw it onto the Olympic Arms A2, dug up some Colt factory hand guards and threw it on the lower of my Mk18 clone.


So, I have no idea what this build is supposed to be.  It's got a 16" barrel, but it would probably look better with a 14.5" barrel or something even shorted.





I'll need a permanent lower for that 16" upper, but I sort of dig that old school look.


Sunday, October 22, 2017

C7 fixed carry handle build

A few weeks ago, my buddy gave me a 20" HBAR upper with the fixed carry handle :


It was the collective opinion of some guys from ARF that the upper might have been an Olympic Arms HBAR upper.  Anyway, I didn't have a dedicated lower ready for it, so my buddy Hermes from Reliable gun got me a stripped Colt Canada lower for pretty cheap.  Actually, it was about half the price of my first stripped lower when these things first came out.



This one was a light gray like my previous ones, but I didn't bother soaking this one in G96/CLP for three weeks to darken it up.  This one also didn't have any markings between the maple leaf and the serial number.  I had it engraved before I had a chance to take a pic of the virgin receiver though, so you'll have to use your imagination.  Also, I had the wrong engraving put in, as this build was supposed to have a fixed carry handle so it should have just been C7 instead of C7A2.


The engraving wasn't perfect, I think the font is a bit on the small side, but whatever, the lower didn't cost me much so I don't really care.


The C7A2 Lower, what the markings are supposed to look like.



Aside from the stripped lower, and the DPMS LPK, I dug a few other Colt Canada parts out of my spare parts box.  I don't think these items however were on the earliest C7s.







Basically all the tools needed to assemble the lower.  The only thing extra I used was a pair of needle nose pliers and some masking tape.  These lowers are getting easier for me to assemble now.  I think this was my 4th or 5th one now, and I didn't even need to refer to any videos to do it this time.



The DPMS LPK is an inexpensive way to get an AR up and running.  I remember my DD lower parts kit cost me $99 back in the day, but to be honest, the parts in this kit weren't that far off in terms of quality, fit and finish.


I've had this work matt for ages and I don't think I've ever laid out the parts like this before, lol!


The magazine release.


The bolt catch spring and plunger.


Tapping in the bolt catch roll pin.  I remember this was a huge pain in the dick for me, but the last two lowers were fairly easy with the right tools.  In fact, I had two buddies over for drinks and I didn't feel like they were a distraction at all.  I slapped this whole lower together while having a perfectly normal conversation with them.


A little CLP goes a long way when it comes to roll pins.


The front take down pin can also be a bit of a pain, but this too was getting easier for me.


Using an X-acto knife blade to retain the front take town detent pin and detent spring makes it worlds easier when sliding the take down pin into the receiver.


I just recently heard someone broke one of the ears of the trigger guard in their Colt Canada stripped lowers.  I can see these things breaking, but I've never had this problem, even before I had the right tools.  This Wheeler AR Armourer's Bench Block really makes things a lot easier though.  It holds the lower in place, and also offers support to the bottom ear.  The top ear will then be supported by the trigger guard itself so for the last two builds, it was a total piece of cake for me.


Again, a little CLP goes a long way.




To be honest, the DPMS disconnector fit better than the DD one I had a few years ago.  I remember I had to remove some material to make it fit into the DD trigger.  This one was a snug fit, but didn;t require the removal of any material.


I actually installed the disconnector spring upside down the first time around, but managed to figure out why I couldn't get my trigger pin into the receiver.  




Installing the hammer was pretty straight forward.


I'll have to order another ambi selector from Midway USA soon.



I'll probably just use the standard A2 grip for this build.  










Comparison to my Colt Canada SA20, clone of the C7A2


Yeah, the upper came with a standard USGI M16 sling.  I was too lazy to dig out the C7 sling that came with my SA20.



As mentioned before, I don't think the first C7s came with the TRIAD rail, but since it was in my spare parts box, I threw it on anyway.  I also have a KAC M5 RAS rail for this length of barrel, but I don't think I'll be using that one unless I go with a flat top upper for it.



A replica "Claw" from Frontier Firearms I think.  It was cheap and in my spare parts box.


The colors don't match, just like the real deal!


Not exactly the same as the C7 when I first joined the CF, but it's black, lol!


When I first joined the CF, our unit didn't have the green furniture.  The rifles were all black, fixed A2 buttstocks, but flat top uppers with the Elcan.  They didn't have the Norgon ambi mag release, ambi selector, TRIAD rail, or the "Claw" charging handle.  I have no idea what configuration they were before I joined, so I'm not even sure if they ever had the fixed carry handle.




I'll have to find some time to take this thing out to shoot one of these days.

Salish Rifle 25