My pal Regala took me out to PoCo Outdoor Range and we did some shooting up there. I didn't take a lot of pictures, but instead, just focused on shooting. I had some issues with my AR. I guess I've been shooting so much .22lr through it that it might have bunged up the gas tube. The round comes out, but the bolt stays locked to the front without ejecting the empty casing. Anyway, I'm gonna go to Michael's to grab some pipe cleaners and run it through the gas tube a few times, see if that helps. Hope it's not leaking.
I managed to get a bullseye at 50 meters with my 1911. I know, it was probably just a fluke, haha!
I spent most of my time playing with my 1911 and my M14. These targets were set out at 200 meters. I know, pretty bad groupings, but I'm pretty happy that that I got it printing at all, haha! More to learn.
My pal Jay and I went out to Squamish and did some shooting. Since he helped me sort out my issues with my M14, I wanted to try it out and get some practice in some longer distance shooting than what I've sort of gotten used to. I've been shooting at DVC Indoor Range mostly, which maxes out at 17 yards. Jay also wanted to try out his Troy Modular Chassis mated to his M14.
I also wanted to test out how the bipod and the sandbag adds to shooting. I have to say, it definitely helped my shooting, but I still have a lot to learn. I watched Magpul Precision Rifle recently and haven't felt that stupid in a very long time. Let's just say that I was completely lost in the first 15 minutes.
Jay's Savage Arms .223 bolt action.
Jay bought a self-healing target. The foam certainly works, but the metal parts don't, haha! I nailed the stand with a 7.62 and it just seared right through it. Unfortunately, this was not an aimed shot, just a fluke.
We found this steel plate that someone must have been shooting at. Not sure what they were shooting, but whatever it was, it didn't penetrate. My M14 punched a hole in it no problem.
Jay shooting his M14 with the Troy Modular Chassis installed. He said that it was a little nose heavy, but shoots pretty straight. That much is clear in this video.
There's all kinds of crap that people leave out there in this part of Squamish, and one particular item was this God forsaken empty milk carton. We set it up on a log post and I was trying to nail this stupid thing. I put two mags through it, but it just wouldn't fall. It didn't even move. I was a bit pissed with myself until we walked up to it and found it full of 7.62 holes. The rounds must have blazed through it so fast that it didn't move. Later on, I took my 870 to it with 7 1/2 bird/target load, and at least three shells didn't knock it down. The pellets just went right through it. I eventually vapourized it, dumping at least ten shells through it....damg you milk jug!
Well, I finally got around to cutting out the foam that came with my Pelican 1750 to fit some of my hardware. Even in such a large case, it was pretty hard to get everything I wanted in there. I've been thinking about how to cut the foam out for weeks. Ever since I got my Pelican from Cabela's, down in the states, I've been humming and hawing about how best to sort it out. If I screwed up, it would probably cost me another $80 or so just for another foam insert. I was searching around for ideas, and my favourite one so far was one I saw on Gun Cruzer:
Although I only have one AR and one pistol, it would have been nice to just leave my AR and my 870 in the bottom, and just my 1911 and all the mags in the lid, sort of like this picture above. I don't know if maybe I could have fit the 1911 and my M14 in the lid, and my AR and my shotty below, but that means I would have to change the foam configuration to have one thin sheet at the bottom of the case, then a thick later to house the AR and the shotty, then a thin layer to separate the bottom of the case with the top. Then have a thick thick layer of foam to house my pistol, all the mags and maybe even my M14, then another thin sheet to be put up against the inner surface of the lid. Well, the foam is pretty price from Pelican so next time I go to Home Depot, I'll see if they have anything even remotely close.
Anyway, I ended up with this setup. Just crammed my 1750 with as much stuff as possible. I guess I could get another hard case for my M14, haha! Well, I might also go down to Cabela's and grab one of their soft cases for $65:
Pretty amazing for $65. I grabbed one for my buddy Jay, now I want one, haha! It's pretty nice, should fit my AR, my shotty and my pistol in the one of the side pouches. Less bulky too. Anyway, I can alternate the hardcase (my Pelican 1750) between those three and my M14.
I was having a bit of an issue with my Norinco M14 where it would either not pass the function test after cleaning (sear wouldn't catch, therefore if shot, would go into full auto), or the trigger would hang up and get stuck. I would squeeze the trigger, take up the slack just before it broke, but then if I left my finger off the trigger, it would just stay in position. Other times, I would just squeeze, it would stay but not drop the hammer. I'd then have to reef on it just to get it to break.
Anyway, my pal Jay fixed my M14 by installing a set-screw into the stock where the trigger group would sit on top of. He got the idea from his Troy Industries Modular Chassis system and basically used the same idea to fix mine. Once it was possible to adjust the fitment of the trigger group, he got the perfect tension and the M14 was able to operate normally again. Thanks man!
I'm selling my Airsoft Tokyo Marui M4A1 R.I.S. to make room in the locker for some new toys, haha! It's got all the original parts back on it so it's as good as new. I took this chance to take some pictures of the real deal next to a pretty convincing toy. I also mounted my new Magpul MBUS sights in OD, as well as the VLTOR/BCM Gunfighter charging handle.
